To make beer at home, mash water and malted grain, boil and add hops, chill and add yeast to ferment, then package and carbonate. The entire process takes 2-6 weeks from start to finished pint. It's a fun and incredibly rewarding process. The best part about it is being able to make something new, unique, and perfectly tailored to what you enjoy drinking. The second best part about making beer is sharing it with your friends!

I've been brewing for 20 years and have made hundreds of batches. I created this step-by-step guide by combining my experience with insights from professional brewers and beginners alike.

Table of Contents

How Beer is Made -  An Overview

Whether it's being brewed in a commercial brewery or made at home, beer is created using the same four primary ingredients - water, malted cereal grains, hops, and yeast.

At a very high level, the process of brewing beer goes something like this: First, create a sugary liquid during what is called "the mash." After that, boil the liquid and add hops, which is a bittering agent and a natural preservative. Next, cool the liquid to room temperature and add yeast. This concludes brewing. The next step is fermentation.

During fermentation, yeast eats sugar in the liquid and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. At this point it’s officially “beer.” However it's not ready to be drank just yet. It still needs to either be bottled or kegged and then carbonated, to make it fizzy.

The amount of time it takes to make beer is heavily dependent on the style brewed and the equipment and processes used. Experienced brewers with good equipment can make an ale in 1-2 weeks. It will take new brewers who bottle condition 4-6 weeks to brew an ale. Lagers can take as long as 6 months to brew.

1. Clean and Sanitize 

Start by thoroughly cleaning all brewing equipment with a brewery wash or PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) to remove any residue, proteins, or hop oils. This step is completed by filling the kettle with water and heating it to 150 degrees Fahrenheit, adding PBW, allowing it to dissolve, then washing the equipment and all components with a soft bristled brush. Once complete, drain and then rinse completely with fresh warm water. Following this step by sanitizing with a no-rinse sanitizer like Star San is an extra measure of precaution that will further reduce the possibility of contamination and a ruined batch of beer.

2. Prepare water

Fill the kettle with the amount of water called for in your recipe and begin heating up to mash temperature. We consider adjusting water chemistry "optional" for new brewers, with one exception: controlling for chlorine and chloramine. Using chlorinated tap water with no modifications will negatively impact yeast health and beer flavor, so it's essential to address before brewing. It's also very easy to fix. Just add half of a campden tablet for every 7 gallons of starting water to neutralize chlorine and chloramines.

• Pro Tip: Water constitutes the majority of beer and its mineral content dramatically affects taste and mouthfeel. Different styles require varying water profiles - hoppy beers benefit from higher sulfate levels, while malty beers are enhanced by higher chloride concentrations. Advanced brewers should obtain their local water report or test their water, then adjust chemistry using brewing salts like gypsum (adds sulfate) or calcium chloride (adds chloride) to match their target style. Additionally, controlling mash pH between 5.2-5.6 is vital for proper enzymatic activity and sugar conversion. Here's our brewing water chemistry guide.

3. Crush Grain

Crush grain by adding it to a grain mill and grinding for at least one pass. If using a Clawhammer BIAB system, crush grain to .025" (using the smallest mill setting). For maximum efficiency, consider "double crushing" by running everything through the mill twice. If using any other brewing system, crush somewhere between .035" and .045", as other systems are not designed to handle such a fine crush.

4. Mash Grain

Create a slurry by slowly stirring the crushed grain into your heated water, ensuring no dry clumps form. Maintain mash temperature (between 140-160°F) for the duration specified in the recipe (typically 60 minutes). Recirculate wort during this time if your brewing system features this option; otherwise, stir occasionally.

• Fun fact: During the mash, enzymes (alpha and beta amylase) naturally found within malted grain are activated and break down starches into fermentable sugars.

After the mash timer has expired, separate the grain from the liquid (now called wort) by completing the following: if using a "Brew in a Bag," "Single Vessel," or "All in One" brewing system, elevate the bag or basket above the kettle, allowing liquid to drain from the grain back into the kettle for 5-10 minutes. Once finished, remove the spent grain and toss it in a compost pile. It also makes excellent feed for farm animals.

5. Boil and Add Hops

While liquid is draining from the spent grain, begin heating the wort to a boil, which typically takes 15-45 minutes depending on your heat source. During the boil, hops are also added. Wort is boiled to concentrate the sugars, sterilize the wort, and increase hop bitterness.

Once boiling, maintain a vigorous but controlled boil (typically for 60-90 minutes) and add hops according to your recipe. If using a 120v brewing system, it's likely best to keep the kettle partially covered with the lid to improve the vigor of the boil. If using propane or a 240v brewing system, remove the lid entirely.

• Pro tip: DO NOT leave the brewing kettle unattended during the boil. Closely monitor the vigor of the boil and ensure that the liquid does not boil over the edge of the kettle (called a "boil over"). This is especially critical near the beginning of the boil after the first hop addition is added.

6. Chill

After the boil has finished, cool the wort from boiling temperature to around 65-75°F as quickly as possible. 

Chilling Methods:

• Ice Bath: Although I strongly recommend against it, brewing kettles without electric heating elements can be placed in an ice bath. This requires a very large sink basin and is dangerous - a kettle containing 6+ gallons of HOT wort weighs  50 pounds or more, making it difficult to move safely and prone to spilling. It's also the least efficient method, so avoid if possible.
• Immersion Chillers: These chillers consist of copper coils that are lowered into the wort. Cold water is circulated through the coils, which cools the beer. While appearing like a good option on paper, small inefficient models under $50 perform poorly. Quality immersion chillers cost $100+ yet remain less efficient than a $50-60 plate chiller. They're the second slowest chilling method but offer one advantage: they're clog-proof since coils sit in the wort rather than having wort flow through them.
• Counterflow Chillers:  In counterflow chillers, hot wort and cold water flow in opposite directions through separate tubes. These are typically the most expensive option, but they offer excellent performance and reliability because they're almost impossible to clog and chill wort in about 15-25 minutes with cold groundwater.
• Plate Chillers: Plate chillers work like counterflow chillers but wort and cold water flow through different chambers separated by thin copper plates. This is generally the fastest and most compact option, capable of chilling wort in 10-15 minutes with cold tap water. However, they're prone to clogging from hops and grain particles, requiring careful wort filtration or whirlpooling before use. They'r also harder to clean. So, they offer the best value for efficiency but require more attention and maintenance.

Chilling should take somewhere between 15 and 30 minutes. Take this time to make sure your fermenter is clean, sanitized, and ready to receive the chilled wort.

• Pro tip: After the boil is complete, circulate hot wort through your chiller (if using a counterflow or plate chiller) or place the chiller into the boiling wort (if using an immersion chiller) for 10 minutes BEFORE turning on the cooling water. This will add one more layer of protection against contamination by sanitizing the chiller with the high-temperature liquid.
• Pro tip: In many areas of the world, tap water is cool enough to effectively cool beer to pitching temp in a reasonable amount of time. However, in areas and during warm seasons, ice water will need to be circulated through the chillers to achieve the desired effect. 

One of the most fascinating things about beer is that alcohol isn't an ingredient that is merely added to beer. It's actually created during the fermentation process. During fermentation, yeast eat sugar and produce carbon dioxide, alcohol, and a lot of flavor and aroma compounds called esters. So yeast is arguably the most important ingredient in beer and fermentation is undoubtedly the most important process. Fermenting beer, and subsequently conditioning it, is completed by following these steps:

1. Transfer

After brewing, the next step in the process is to transfer the chilled wort to a fermentation vessel. This is best done by siphoning or pumping it from the brew kettle into the fermenter.

2. Add Yeast

Pitching yeast is a crucial moment that requires attention to yeast health and proper pitching rates. Yeast will be specified in the recipe, so try to use the exact strain if possible. If you can't procure an exact match, do your best to find a close substitute.

Dry vs. Liquid Yeast

Dry yeast comes in less variety than liquid yeast, dry yeast packages contain more cells and do not require the wort to be aerated (more on that later). Liquid yeast comes in a much wider variety, but it's more expensive, cell counts are lower, and it requires aeration.

Yeast Health and Pitching Rates

Getting your pitching rate right is crucial for avoiding off-flavors and ensuring a healthy fermentation. Here's our preferred yeast pitching calculator. But the general rule of thumb is about 0.75 million cells per milliliter of wort per degree Plato for ales, and double that for lagers. If you're working with specific gravity (which most homebrewers do), that's roughly the same ratio per gravity point. So for a standard ale around 1.048 SG (12° Plato), you'll want about 113.5 billion cells for your 5-gallon batch. A standard package of dry yeast, which typically contains about 200 billion cells, would do the trick. A single packet of liquid yeast usually contains around 100 billion cells, is pretty close, and would probably work, but is technically low.

Yeast Starters

If your cell count is low or you just want to make sure you have enough yeast, make a yeast starter. This is done by combining dry malt extract and a single package of yeast in an Erlenmeyer flask and allowing it to ferment for 1-3 days prior to brewing and pitching in the full batch. Here's our detailed guide on making a yeast starter.

Pitching Process

Whether using dry or liquid yeast, remove the yeast from the freezer or refrigerator several hours before it is to be used. This will allow it to slowly rise to room temperature, which is best practice for a healthy start to fermentation. Next, sanitize the outside of the yeast packaging before opening by sprying it with sanitizer solution. Also sanitize the tool you'll use to open the package. For dry yeast, simply sprinkle directly onto the chilled wort. For liquid yeast, pour it into the wort in the fermenter.

3. Seal

The fermentation vessel should be sealed with a lid and an "air lock." An air lock is a simple device that lets gas out but won't let any air in. It's necessary because as yeast grow they produce carbon dioxide. This gas must be released. Keeping air out is necessary for preventing contamination of the beer by wild yeast and bacteria and also for preventing oxidation.

4. Aerate

As mentioned in step 3, if you've used liquid yeast, you'll need to add oxygen to the wort by shaking the fermenter. Yeast need oxygen at the beginning of their life cycle to adequately finish the fermentation process, and this is especially true for liquid yeast. To aerate the wort, pick up the entire vessel or place it on its edge and shake for 60-120 seconds. This will achieve a dissolved oxygen level of 6-8 ppm, which is exactly what the yeast needs.

5. Ferment

Temperature control is arguably the most critical factor for successful fermentation and optimal flavor production. Beyond basic sanitation (cleaning and sanitizing all equipment), maintaining consistent fermentation temperatures ensures yeast health and prevents off-flavor development.

Temperature Ranges:

• Ales: 68-72°F (20-22°C) for most strains, though some Belgian and saison yeasts prefer 75-85°F (24-29°C).
• Lagers: 48-58°F (9-14°C) for primary fermentation, followed by extended cold conditioning.
• Temperature Consistency: Avoid temperature swings greater than 2-3°F during active fermentation, as fluctuations stress yeast and can produce fusel alcohols and esters.

• Pro tip: ferment in a basement or a crawlspace when seasons allow. These areas are often cooler than room temperature and offer greater temperature stability. If such an area is not available to you, place the fermenter in a chest freezer or a refrigerator outfitted with a simple digital temperature controller to perfectly dial in fermentation temp.

Fermentation Duration:

Understanding fermentation timing is crucial for producing quality beer, but it's important to remember that fermentation is finished when it's finished—not when the calendar says it should be.

Primary Fermentation Timeline:

• Ales: Typically 7-10 days for most strains, though some aggressive yeasts like Kveik can finish in 3-5 days at higher temperatures
• Lagers: 3-4 weeks for primary fermentation due to the slower metabolism of lager yeast at cold temperatures
• High-gravity beers: Can take 2-3 weeks regardless of yeast type due to the stress of high alcohol environments
• Belgian styles: Often 10-14 days as many Belgian strains work slowly and methodically

Signs of Active Fermentation:

During the first 24-48 hours, you should see vigorous activity—bubbling airlock, foamy krausen formation, and sometimes even violent churning of the wort. This high activity typically subsides after 3-4 days, but fermentation continues at a slower pace.

How to Know It's Actually Done:

Don't rely solely on time or airlock activity. The only reliable way to confirm fermentation completion is with consecutive gravity readings taken 2-3 days apart. If the readings are identical, fermentation is complete. Most ales finish between 1.008-1.016 FG, while lagers often finish slightly lower.

Extended Fermentation Benefits:

Even after primary fermentation appears complete, leaving the beer on the yeast for an additional week allows for cleanup of off-flavors like diacetyl and acetaldehyde. This extended contact time, sometimes called "diacetyl rest," is particularly important for lagers but benefits all beer styles.

When Fermentation Stalls:

If fermentation stops prematurely (high final gravity with sweet, unfinished flavors), consider moving the fermenter to an area with a warmer ambient temperature, gentle rousing of the yeast, or pitching fresh yeast. Sometimes a stuck fermentation just needs a little encouragement.

6. Clarify

The beer may also be cloudy and have a "yeasty" character. This can be eliminated by a process called “cold crashing” (reducing the temperature to near freezing). Cold crashing at 34 degrees for 4 days will cause a lot of the solids to drop out of suspension. Some homebrewers will also add fining agents (like gelatin) to further improve clarity. Lager beers are stored at very cold temperatures for weeks to several months to improve both clarity and taste.

Knowing When to Bottle

So, how do you know your beer is ready for bottling? Timing is everything, and bottling too soon is a common rookie mistake, often resulting in overcarbonation—or worse, exploding bottles that redecorate your closet with fizzy, malty wallpaper.

Here’s how to tell it’s time:

• Fermentation Is Finished: The surest sign is a steady, unchanging hydrometer reading taken two or three days apart (as mentioned above). If gravity hasn't budged, you're good to go.
• Clarity Improves: The beer has dropped bright (or close to it), with much of the haze and sediment settled out.
• No Visible Activity: Bubbling in the airlock has ceased for at least several days, and there’s no foam krausen on the beer.
• Taste Test: Don’t forget to sample! It should taste like flat beer—maybe a little rough, but free of raw or sugary notes.

If your beer checks all these boxes, congratulations, bottling day awaits.

After the initial stage of conditioning, the beer may taste and look good, but it is likely flat (uncarbonated) and needs a home. Typically home brewed beer is first packaged and then carbonated. In terms of packaging, here are the options:

1. Bottling

Bottling requires the lowest initial investment because craft beer bottles can actually be reused and bottle cappers and caps are relatively inexpensive. However, most home brewers consider it a pain and prefer other methods. It does have its advantages though, particularly when a beer needs to be stored for a long time to age. Once your beer is conditioned and ready for packaging, complete the following steps to bottle.

Filling and Capping Bottles

Before you even think about bottling your beer, it’s absolutely critical to thoroughly clean and sanitize every single piece of equipment that will touch your brew. Clean everything by washing bottles, bottling buckets, bottle filler, caps, and any transfer tubing with a good brewery wash such as PBW or unscented oxy-cleaner. Use a bottle brush to scrub the insides of your bottles and dislodge any stubborn residue. After cleaning, sanitize completely rinsing away all traces of soap and then hitting everything with a food-grade, no-rinse sanitizer like StarSan.

1. Set up a bottling bucket fitted with a spigot, then attach a length of hose with a bottle filler on the end. This handy device makes the job much easier and minimizes splashing, which helps prevent oxidation.
2. Add priming sugar to the bottling bucket, per recipe instructions, then transfer finished beer from the fermenter to the bucket using a siphon and silicone tubing. This will allow the priming sugar to be well distributed in the beer.
3. To fill your bottles, push the bottle filler all the way to the bottom of a clean, sanitized bottle and open the spigot. Let the beer fill to the very brim—don’t worry, when you pull out the filler, just the right amount of headspace will remain. Work methodically through your batch until every bottle is filled. After filling, seal each bottle with a sanitized cap and a handheld capper. Make sure each cap is firmly crimped in place for a good seal. Take your time with this step; a secure closure will keep your beer fresh and carbonation locked in.
4. After bottling, your beer should be stored at typical room temperature (around 68–72°F) for about two weeks. This gives the yeast time to consume the priming sugar, naturally carbonate the beer, and fully develop its flavors. A dark closet or under-the-bed spot works great to keep the bottles out of direct sunlight and temperature swings. Once the two weeks are up, chill a bottle, pop the cap, and check for fizz and flavor before chilling the rest.

2. Canning

Electric canners are somewhat expensive and new cans need to be purchased for each new batch of beer. The only real benefit to canning is being able to take home brewed beer places where glass is undesirable (pools, etc). That said, it’s probably the least popular option due to cost. Though, if canning is the direction you want to head, complete the following steps once the beer is ready.

Filling and Sealing Cans

1. Set up your canning station with a sealed keg and a counter-pressure filler or bottling bucket with a gravity filler and a hose or wand long enough to reach the bottom of your cans, ensuring all equipment is properly sanitized.
2. If using a counter pressure filler, assuming the beer has already been carbonated, skip to step 3. If using a bottling bucket with uncarbonated beer, add priming sugar to the bottling bucket, per recipe instructions, then transfer finished beer from the fermenter to the bucket using a siphon and silicone tubing. This will allow the priming sugar to be well distributed in the beer.
3. Place each clean, sanitized can firmly against the filling head and slowly open the valve. Generating a small amount of foam on top of the beer in the can is actually preferred when using a counter pressure filler and finished beer because it prevents oxygen (which causes the beer to go bad prematurely) from becoming trapped in the can. Conversely, a bit of air is actually preferred if filling cans with uncarbonated beer and priming sugar.
4. Immediately place a sanitized lid on each filled can, allowing excess foam to spill over the side of the cans (this is called "capping on foam") if using a counter pressure filler. Then use a can seamer to create a double-seam seal. Apply steady pressure while rotating the can through the seaming process. Check each seam to ensure it's uniform and tight—a proper seal is crucial for maintaining freshness and preventing contamination.

3. Kegging

Kegging is perhaps the most expensive initial investment, as it requires kegs, a co2 tank, a kegerator, and a tap, but it’s by far the most convenient. Also having beer on tap in a kegerator is pretty sweet! Here's the process for Kegging beer.

Filling and Sealing Kegs

1. Prepare a keg and a racking cane or auto-siphon by cleaning and sanitizing. Ensure all keg components including the dip tube, posts, and O-rings have been properly cleaned with PBW and sanitized with StarSan.
2. Transfer the beer into the keg slowly to minimize splashing and oxidation, filling to within 2-3 inches of the top. Unlike canning, it is not advised to create a foam layer on top of the liquid, as oxygen will be removed and replaced with CO2 in the next step.
3. Secure the keg lid firmly and pressurize with CO2. Pull the pressure relief valve and allow all gas to escape. Repeat this step several times in order to "purge" oxygen from the keg. Once finished, check all connections for leaks by listening for escaping gas or applying StarSan to fittings and inspecting for bubbles. If no leaks are present, pressurize to 10-15psi.

Home brewers typically package their beer before carbonating and conditioning. As mentioned above, once the primary fermentation is complete, the beer is transferred to a keg, bottles, or cans. At this point, the liquid is carbonated and conditioned.

Cans and Bottles

When wort is transferred to bottles along with priming sugar, a mini fermentation happens which creates additional CO2. because the beer is now in a sealed container, the CO2 gas gets absorbed into the liquid causing it to become carbonated. To achieve this, the beer needs only to be held at room temperature for 7-14 days so the yeast can do its thing. However, the beer is often allowed to sit a bit longer than the time it initially takes to become carbonated. This is because the beer is still "green" at this stage. With a bit of time, some additional processing of the liquid is completed by the remaining yeast, eliminating some of the potential off flavors, while simultaneously developing desirable flavor, aroma, and mouthfeel.

Carbonating Kegs

When transferred to a keg beer is typically “force carbonated,” meaning that a CO2 tank is attached to the keg and the keg is pressurized to serving pressure (10-15psi) and held at serving temp (40ish degrees F) for a week, causing the gas to be absorbed by the beer. However, kegs can be carbonated more quickly by "quick carbing" the beer. This is achieved by increasing the pressure to about 40psi then shaking the keg for several minutes.

Additional Beer Making Resources

• Extract Brewing
• Partial Mash Brewing
• All Grain Brewing

Beer Brewing FAQs

What are the basic ingredients needed to brew beer at home? 

The basic ingredients for brewing beer at home are water, malted grains (primarily barley), hops, and yeast.

What equipment do I need to start home brewing? 

Basic home brewing equipment includes a brewing kettle, thermometer, fermenter with airlock, thermometer, hydrometer, sanitizer, stirring spoon, and bottles or kegs for storing the finished beer. More advanced brewers may also use a heat source (electric is preferred) with digital temperature control, mash paddle, grain mill, wort chiller, a stir plate and flask (for making yeast starters), and you’re all set!

How long does the beer brewing process take? 

The brewing process itself usually takes a few hours, but the fermentation can take anywhere from a week to several months depending on the type of beer. After that, the beer needs to be bottled and conditioned, which can take an additional few weeks.

Why isn't my beer fermenting? 

There could be several reasons why your beer isn't fermenting. It could be that the yeast was old or unhealthy, the temperature might be too cold for the yeast to be active, or there might not be enough oxygen in the wort.

How do I know when the fermentation process is complete? 

The best way to know when fermentation is complete is by using a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity of the beer. When the specific gravity remains the same for two or three days, fermentation is likely complete.

What is the difference between ale and lager? 

The main difference between ale and lager is the type of yeast used and the fermentation temperature. Ales use top-fermenting yeast and are fermented at warmer temperatures, while lagers use bottom-fermenting yeast and are fermented at cooler temperatures.

Can I brew beer at home legally? 

The legality of home brewing varies by country and sometimes by state or province. In the United States, home brewing is legal under federal law, though states are allowed to set their own laws regarding home brewing.

How do I clean and sanitize my brewing equipment? 

All brewing equipment should be thoroughly cleaned with a brewing-specific cleaner and then sanitized with a no-rinse sanitizer before use.

What are some common mistakes to avoid in home brewing? 

Some common mistakes include not cleaning and sanitizing equipment properly, not controlling the fermentation temperature, rushing the process, and not measuring ingredients accurately.

How can I improve the taste of my home-brewed beer?

Improving the taste of home-brewed beer can be achieved by using high-quality ingredients, controlling the fermentation temperature, allowing the beer to condition properly, and experimenting with different recipes and brewing techniques.

How long does homemade beer last? 

Homemade beer can last for several months to a year if stored properly. It should be kept in a cool, dark place and consumed within a year for the best taste.

Can I grow my own hops for brewing? 

Yes, you can grow your own hops for brewing. However, hops are a climbing plant and need a lot of vertical space. They also require a specific climate and soil conditions.

What is the role of yeast in brewing? 

Yeast is responsible for fermentation in the brewing process. It consumes the sugars in the wort and produces alcohol, carbon dioxide, and flavors. 

Can I use any type of yeast? 

While there are many types of yeast, brewers yeast is specifically designed for brewing beer and will produce the best results.

What food should I pair my home brew with?

Check out our comprehensive guide for everything you need to know about beer and food pairings.